UrS4/UrS6 ECU Removal Procedure

UrS4/UrS6 ECU Removal Procedure

Removing the ECU in the Audi UrS4 and UrS6 isn’t terribly difficult. Simply follow the step-by-step photos below. Installation is the reverse of removal (of course).

Thanks to Jimmy Pribble (Formerly of UrS4dotCOM) for this FAQ

1992 – 1997 Audi S4 S6 Ignition Switch Replacement

1992 – 1997 Audi S4 S6 Ignition Switch Replacement

If you own o­ne of these cars long enough there is a good chance that someday you’ll experience a failed ignition switch. When the switch fails it typically sticks in the ‘start’ position which will keep the starter engaged and cause things such as your power windows, radio, and climate control to stop functioning.

If you look in the factory repair manual it will tell you to remove the entire steering wheel and instrument cluster. While that would make access easier it is not essential to do so. For the process detailed below both the steering wheel and instrument cluster were left in the car. The cluster will be repositioned in order to allow for access to the switch however it was not unplugged or removed from the car.

OK, so what will you need for this operation?

  1. Small flat screwdriver (see photo for an idea o­n the size)
  2. Medium Phillips screwdriver
  3. Small towel to cover top of steering wheel switch panel (to avoid scratching it with instrument cluster o­nce moved out of the way)
  4. Telescoping mirror (comes in very handy although not essential)
  5. Light. A small fluorescent work light worked well for my purposes. Just don’t use anything HOT as you don’t want to melt any of the wiring harnesses in the dash.
  6. Thread locker (Loctite etc.)
  7. A few cotton swabs (Q-tips)
  8. New Ignition Switch. Audi Part Number 4A0 905 849B
  9. Patience.. and smaller hands help too. 😉
  10. A telescoping magnet retrieval tool may come in handy as well… in the event you drop something in the dash. Let’s hope for the best however!
  11. Time: If you are new to this sort of thing allocate about 2 hours start to finish. If all goes in your favor and you’re a handy individual I suspect it could be done in about 45 mins.

Let’s get started… step by step:

  1. Remove the lower instrument cluster bezel trim. There are two Phillips type screws that you will need to remove first. o­ne is up from the ignition itself and the other is o­n the opposite side of the steering wheel. once the screws are out pull the bezel from the far left (USA driver side) out and toward the left. There is a small peg that goes into the passenger side of the dash that helps hold the trim piece in place. That part was simple enough right?
  2. Now we need to get the instrument cluster out of the way. It is held in place by three more phillips type screws located along the bottom of the cluster. These screws go through clips that help hold the cluster in place.
  3. Drop your steering wheel to the lowest position and then cover the top portion of the wheel and stalk with your towel.
  4. Time to pull the instrument cluster out a bit. Grab it at the bottom and pull out… these can be a bit snug so be forewarned! I generally find that pulling and wiggling a bit more from the passenger side helps it slide out. We’re not pulling it all the way out, we’re just going to reposition it so we can get at the switch. (While the cluster is in this state it might be a good time to replace or upgrade your cluster illumination as well.)
  5. Now we need to remove the switch itself. Keep in mind we’re o­nly going to be doing the electrical portion of the switch and not the entire lock cylinder. Make sure your ignition switch is in the OFF position. (Being left handed I found that working from the passenger seat suited me better but your preference may differ.) There is a small relay box looking part to the upper right of the switch… it has a clip that just slides o­n to part of the car. Slide it off and set it to the side for extra room. There are two small flat screws that must be loosened before you can remove the switch assembly. You can spot these screws because they are typically visible as two small red dots. The red dots are the thread locker used at the factory o­nce the switch was installed. You now have the rather tedious task of removing the thread locker in oder to get at the screws. I was able to do this with a little force and repitition with my small flat screwdriver. Just keep at it and use a damp swab to clean the area as you work. Don’t get too crazy here as you don’t want to end up stripping out the screws. Eventually you’ll get to the point where you can’t turn the screws out (counter-clockwise) with a little effort. They are tough to turn at first. Do NOT take them all the way out. See the photo illustration for an idea of how far to go.
  6. You’ve got a screw loose? Well, two of them actually… o­n the ignition switch. Depending upon how much fun you had getting at those little screws you might feel as if you have a screw loose elsewhere as well. Have no fear, the painful part is almost over. Now use your small flat screwdriver to gently pry the switch portion out of the surrounding bracket. I left the connector plug attached at the rear. It takes a bit of effort in a very confined space but it should slide back and out. I went back and down toward the center console of the car. From there I could work it back up and out. (Note: I chose to leave it plugged in during removal and installation as it gave me a bit more to hang o­n to when wrestling for the correct position. If you feel confident that you can unplug it and still be able to get the old switch out and new o­ne back in give it a shot.)
  7. If all went well you’re holding the old switch attached to the harness plug in your hand. Carefully pry the plug off. Get your new switch ready. Your old switch should be in the OFF position so compare it to the new o­ne and make sure it too is in the off position. If it is not, push a small flat screwdriver into the switch to depress the plunger and turn it to the OFF position. Now plug the new switch into the harness plug.
  8. Now you have to get the switch back in place. I came in the same way I went out. Switch end down in towards the center console and then into place sort of from the under side of the switch bracket. The two black plastic tabs o­n each side should be horizontal when sliding in as they are what you tighten the screws down o­nto. Don’t forget to reattach the small relay you removed and set aside… unless you want a mysterious rattle from within your dashboard. 😉
  9. Got it in? Tighten the small screws o­nce again and put a dab of thread locker o­n the tops. I’d suggest avoiding the hard core thread locker here just in case you have to do this again sometime.
  10. Put the instrument cluster back in place and tighten the three screws at the bottom… make sure you have your clips lined up!
  11. Install the lower cluster trim piece and the two screws from the bottom and you should be done! Start the car. Your power windows and such should now work o­nce again. Hopefully you didn’t drive the car (or not far) with your failed ignition switch or you may find yourself replacing the starter as well.

Good luck!

Darin Nederhoff
Founder, S-CARS.ORG

The 1.8T Coil Pack Conversion for 1992-1997 Audi S4/S6

1.8T Coil Pack Conversion

1.8T Coil Pack Conversion

I’ve been developing this conversion in my head for a number of years because I always thought that, eventually, our OEM coils would no longer be made and I wanted a back-up plan for my car. In the last four or five months, I noticed that I was getting some missing/bucking under WOT, and high boost, at high speed. I figured coil (or POS) but I didn’t want to spend the money o­n replacing old (but perhaps robust) technology when newer technology is out there.

I know all about the 1.8t coil pack recall o­n some of the Bremi-made coil packs but I think that VW/Audi is through all that now. For whatever reason (excess supply, the need to do some good PR), these coil packs are now very reasonably priced. Since I had the need and the price was right (about $200 – $250 for the parts versus the OEM equivalent of about $900 for five coils, two OEM POS units and five spark plug connectors), I decided to make the conversion.

This conversion is intended as an alternative to the original equipment (OE) ignition system that uses two 3-channel power output stages (POSs) and five individual coils each with a replaceable sparkplug connector. The 1.8 t coil pack conversion described in the pdf o­n S-cars.org works but there are no guarantees about improved performance or freedom from failures. The 1.8t coil packs have built-in POS units as well as coils and plug connectors. At the time of writing this, these 06B 905 115L coil packs were about $30 each. In comparison, the OE POSs were about $150 each (and you need two) and the OE coils were about $115 each (and you need five). So even if the odd 115L coil pack fails every o­nce and awhile, they are far less expensive than the original ignition system.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD THE CONVERSION PDF FILE

Conversion story and PDF contributed by Dave Forgie

The C4 Audi S4 / S6 (UrS4/S6) Buyer’s Guide, 2010 Edition

Along with our new web site, the time has come for another revision of our long standing buyer’s guide for the first generation S4 and S6 model cars.

A lot has changed since I first wrote a buyer’s guide for these cars many years ago. Many (many) more miles have accumulated o­n the cars and age has taken a toll o­n them as well. Does this mean that the cars are no longer looking for o­n the used car market?  Not really! Quite the contrary in actuality.

Many of these cars are bargains these days as far as I am concerned. While our guide applies primarily to 1992-1997 North American model S4/S6 cars, it can also be useful for owners of European specification models.

UrS4If you are contemplating the purchase of a first generation (C4 chassis) Audi S4 or S6 then you’re obviously someone who has an appreciation for understated sport sedans. Part of the attraction of these cars aside from the rarity factor is that they are extremely comfortable and capable sport sedans that don’t typically scream “Hey look at me!”  They are also, for the most part, simple enough to work on for the average enthusiast.  While some aspects of the cars are best left to the professionals, a number of things can be done yourself making them more economical to own that the newer uber sedans.

Before beginning we should explain the ‘Ur’ prefix we often use when referring to these cars. Simply put, “Ur” is a German prefix meaning original. You’ll hear these cars referred to as UrS4/UrS6 or the original S4/S6. We’ve now seen four generations of the S4 platform yet there is still a core group of enthusiasts that swear by their UrS4/S6 cars. These cars are unique. Special. Limited production. Oh yeah, and they can be quite fast as well!

With that out of the way let’s take a closer look…

UrS4 badge

UrS4 badge

So where did the S-Cars come from anyway?

Germany of course! Historically speaking, the first generation S4/S6 models owe their existence to the hugely successful Audi Sport Quattro rally cars. After all, the 20 valve turbocharged five cylinder AAN engine found under the hood (bonnet for those of you across the pond) was developed and proven via the Audi rally program. Naturally, the engines found in the original Sport Quattro rally cars are not identical to those found in the average S4/S6 street car but the lineage is there. In fact, the Audi 200 20 valve with the 3B code engine was the first Audi sedan to be graced with the rally inspired engine. The combination of a capable 20 valve turbocharged engine, (which in the case of the 200 20V produced 217 HP) and a well equipped sport-luxury sedan was quite a hit. The cars received praise from the motoring press but the then sluggish U.S. economy combined with Audi’s then dismal sales figures meant that few of the cars were sold during 1991.

The S4 is born….

In 1992 Audi came back with a revised package for the venerable 20V turbo five. New for ’92 the AAN engine featured individual coils for each cylinder rather than the distributor and plug wires found o­n the 1991 Audi 200 3B engined cars. This enhancement helped boost horsepower from 217 to 227 horses. Performance was excellent for a moderately sized sport sedan. 0-60 MPH sprints required roughly 6.3 seconds which at the time was quite impressive (even today it is quick by sedan standards.)

Exterior visual enhancements included flared front fenders, 16×8” five-spoke forged Fuchs alloy wheels shod with 225/50-ZR16 rubber (later replaced by cast alloy 16×7.5” AVUS wheels o­n some S6 models) , ellipsoidal halogen headlights, and a slightly more aggressive stance than the standard issue 100/A6. Pearlescent white paint was the o­nly exterior option aside from the uber-rare sunroof delete option.

Inside the car potential buyers were treated to Recaro sport seats up front, heated seats front and rear (U.S. models), Audi/Bose sound systems, and pretty much every other creature comfort you might need including a hands-free cellular phone mounted in the center armrest. A 10 disc (6 disc o­n later cars) was the o­nly interior option. (Technically, a sunroof-delete option was also available for drivers seeking more headroom but to date I know of o­nly o­ne such car here in North America which is in the hands of a Canadian enthusiast.)

Once again the motoring press praised the Audi uber sedan… not o­nly for the performance but also for the price in comparison with competitors BMW M5 and Mercedes E400. The S4 did still cost nearly $50,000 U.S. dollars (1992) and the economy still wasn’t exactly booming. Audi dealers sold roughly 250 examples the first year and a little more than 500 in 1993 and following years. o­nce the word was out o­n these cars they became very difficult to find o­n dealer lots. I recall my father’s efforts to purchase a ’93 S4 during the summer of ’95… just as soon as the dealer would take o­ne in o­n trade it would be sold. It took nearly six months to find o­ne! Luckily, they are available o­n the used vehicle market these days and at bargain prices.

1994 UrS4

1994 UrS4

Buying a 1992-1997 Audi S4 or S6…

UrS4The time has come to buy your own 1992-1994 S4 or 1995-1997 S6? As these cars have gotten older, there are some additional areas that should be closely inspected when looking to acquire such a vehicle. Generally speaking, these cars were among the most reliable ever built by Audi and they remain great cars for daily service. Proper maintenance is the key to finding the right car.

All things get older and the S-Cars are no exception. The question is, do the original S4 and S6 models age gracefully or do they turn into nightmarish wrecks needing constant attention? Simply put, the vast majority of S-Cars remain solid and reliable despite the years and many many miles. The current market values for these cars make them a nearly unbeatable bargain in the four season family sized sport sedan category. The combination of size, luxury, and performance wrapped up in somewhat of an understated performance sedan package makes them enticing even against more modern Audi offerings.

A good S4/S6 candidate car would be o­ne with a full compliment of service records and an owner who appreciated the car. For this reason, buying a car from an enthusiast owner, such as an S-CARS.ORG member, would be a good place to start. Just remember that few cars are 100% perfect, so don’t expect perfection no matter how nice a car looks or sounds. It is normal to have a few things that need to be taken care of. Don’t let it scare you away from a car if everything else checks out. If the car you’re looking at has more than a few minor problems, make sure the price reflects it. Be very cautious if the car has any major problems (i.e.: transmission trouble, bad A/C system, power steering rack failure, or significant accident damage) Minor fender benders are probably OK as long as repair work was carried out by top notch professionals and there are no signs of rust or paint bubbling.

Now we’ll examine the cars more closely…

Body Structure:

All C4 chassis cars were double galvanized by Audi therefore body panel rust is generally not a major concern unless the car has been in an accident and improperly repaired. Areas more prone to rust include the wheel arches (specifically the bottom trailing edge of the front wheel arches) and the rear trunk lid above the license plate and under the taillights. Generally rust in these areas is limited to surface rust that can be managed. It should also be noted that the hoods (or bonnets) o­n many S6 models were prone to rust along the outer edges of the hood. This was an issue that manifested itself fairly early, so many were replaced by dealers under warranty. Check this area closely if you are considering an S6 model (and don’t overlook it o­n an S4).

S6 steering rack

S6 steering rack

Another area to check is the area where the steering rack is attached to the body of the car. In some cases, owners have reported cracks in the structure where the rack mounts. A creaking sound in the steering can be a hint that all is not well here. This issue was most likely found in the S4 and some early S6 model cars. Later S6 models had reinforced body structure at this area so perhaps Audi caught o­n to the potential for cracks developing here. This problem CAN be fixed in most cases. There is an F.A.Q. o­n the site that details the steps taken by o­ne owner.

The paint o­n these cars was high quality although the Tornado Red and Black cars would tend to oxidize a bit if not religiously maintained. I have seen some clear coat cracking o­n cars as well. If properly cared for, the original finishes o­n these cars can still look very good after the years. You will likely have some rock chips along the front edge of the hood and front fender flares. Watch for acid rain damage o­n cars from the Northeast and more severe rock chips o­n the cars from the Rocky Mountain region such as the Denver metro area. It is not uncommon to see NE and Rocky Mountain region cars with repainted front bumpers, hoods, front fenders, or mirrors due to this road rash. Make sure that any paint work was for cosmetic reasons rather than accident damage. Obviously you will want to make sure the repaint looks to be of good quality as well.

Cars from the Northeast and Midwest and other “winter salted” areas of the country will likely have considerable rust o­n the fittings underneath the car. In most cases this just makes them less convenient to work o­n but it can be a cause for more serious concern in terms of brake calipers or fuel lines. We’ll detail these issues in another section.

What to look for…

– Check all door and fender gaps closely for signs of panel replacement or repair. The gaps should all be uniform with no signs of overspray.
– Carefully examine the steering rack mounting points under the hood and in the front wheel areas. Some owners have experienced cracking in this area. It can be fixed but is best avoided.
– Check the seams along the edge of the hood for signs of rust. This problem was more common o­n S6 models and was often repaired/replaced under warranty by Audi.
– Wheels arches are prone to rock chips. The trailing edge of the front fender seems to be especially prone to damage and can start rusting if not properly cared for.
– Inspect the fuel lines under the car, especially at the points where they pass through the rubber mounting block with stainless clips. Water and road debris tend to collect at this points and may cause the fuel lines to corrode and eventually leak. This problem is most prevalent in the northeast and other “salted” areas of the country. Replacement lines can be obtained from an Audi dealer but they are by no means inexpensive.
– Bumper covers should be in good shape. Beware of covers with cracks or holes in them. Replacement bumper covers can be a bit difficult to locate and typically cost upwards of $600. Bumper covers that “sag” o­n the trailing edge likely have broken side mounting clips. Sometimes you can get lucky and pop them back in place. The majority seem to need new side mounts. Replacement side bumper mounts are not very expensive although often times it is the mounting point o­n the bumper cover itself that has cracked. You’ll have to do your own MacGyver (creative) repair o­n these unless you want to spent a lot of money and buy a new bumper cover.

Engine / Driveline:

The 2.2 liter 20 valve inline five is a time tested work horse that appears to have no set “expiration date”. There are many cars still o­n the road with more than 200,000 miles. Even more surprising is hearing how many of these high mileage cars still have the original K24 turbo working nicely!

Transmissions: All cars sold in North America were equipped with a 5 speed manual gearbox. Unfortunately, the early model cars had problems with pinion bearing failures which often resulted in a high pitched whine that would increase/decrease with speed regardless of whether the clutch was in or out.

Turbochargers: The original K24 turbochargers have performed very well in the long term. Even in Stage 1 or 2 chip tuned cars, these turbos were capable of racking up many miles of service. o­ne of the common upgrade turbos for these cars was the Porsche/Audi RS2 turbocharger. These turbos are even more robust than the K24 units and assuming proper care and engine software they should not be problematic.

What to look out for…
– Transmission noise: If the car you are looking at makes a whining sound that increases or decreases with vehicle speed (regardless of whether the clutch is engaged or not) it likely has a problem.
– Smoke from the exhaust o­n start up: o­n higher mileage cars, this is likely a sign that the valve guide seals have some wear. A small puff of smoke o­nce in a while o­n start up isn’t cause for major alarm but if you get substantial smoke each time the car is started or while driving there are more serious issues.
– Turbochargers: o­n a stock K24 car (engine cold) remove the intake hose o­n the front side of the turbo. You should be able to stick your thumb and index finger in to grasp the center shaft of the turbo wheel. Gently check the turbo shaft for excessive movement fore/aft or up/down. If it feels loose the turbo is likely getting close to needing a rebuild or replacement. “Tired” turbochargers often make more noise while driving under boost conditions as well. Really tired turbos may blow smoke out the rear of the car while driving.

Suspension / Wheels / Brakes:

The stock suspensions o­n the North American S4 and S6 were far too soft for many enthusiast owners. As a result, it will not be uncommon to see cars with Eibach or H&R lowering springs and sport shocks. This is not necessarily a bad thing unless you live in an area where roads are unnervingly harsh. The H&R springs are typically firmer riding than the Eibachs, so keep that in mind as well. Suspension bushings and bits don’t last forever, so by now most should have been replaced or upgraded. Be aware that o­nce these cars are lowered with either the Eibach or H&R sport spring kits, they will no longer be alignable to factory specs. You will need to purchase some adjustable camber plates from ECS Tuning in Ohio or 2Bennett in California to alieviate this problem. Another alternative would be to modify your existing plates via the Igor Kessel camber plate mod which can be found elsewhere o­n our web site.

The stock wheels for the UrS4 were 16×8” forged Fuchs (pronounced: “fooks”) five spoke alloys shod with 225/50-16” tires. The Fuchs wheels were generally strong and fairly light weight compared to aftermarket wheels. The clear coat o­n the lip of the wheel was prone to cracking and discoloring… especially o­nce the wheels had come into contact with a curb or other abrasive surface.

An optional six spoke 15×7.5” wheel made by Speedline was also offered by dealers in the snowy parts of the country as part of the all-season option. These wheels were often shod with 205 or 215 series snow tires for winter use.

Finally, the later model UrS6 and all UrS6 Avants were fitted with the AVUS style 16×7.5” cast alloy wheels. The AVUS styling of these wheels is something that has been carried over in some shape/form to the latest model offerings from Audi.

’17″Larger wheels and tires are not uncommon sights o­n UrS4/S6 models. Most owners opt for 17” wheels with tire sizes ranging from 225/45-17 to 255/40-17 depending upon wheel width. Keep in mind that larger wheels typically mean more weight and rotational mass which can affect your acceleration and braking. Lightweight plus size wheels such as the OZ Superleggera, SSR Competition, and other forged or light weight wheels are icing o­n the cake. Many big brake upgrades REQUIRE that 17” wheels be used in order to safely clear the brake calipers.

Got brakes?
Perhaps o­ne of the biggest areas of disappointment for owners is in the stock brake system. The North American model cars were fitted with Audi’s long used Girling G60 brake calipers. These brakes are certainly sufficient for stock street use however they are not well suited to track use where repeated high speed braking is the norm. As a result, you may encounter cars with upgraded front brake calipers and rotors. The most common upgrade path uses the Porsche/Brembo 4 piston calipers from cars ranging from the Porsche Boxster o­n up to the Porsche 993 and 996 twin turbos and every model in between. The Porsche 993tt/996tt “Big Reds” as they are often called are generally the most desired models with front wheel brake upgrade kits costing roughly $2500. It is obviously a nice “bonus” if the car you are looking at has been fitted with these uber brakes.

1994 UrS4 center console

1994 UrS4 center console

Interior Systems:

While the UrS4 and UrS6 had all the bells and whistles of the era, they are relatively simple in comparison to the more modern models.

What to look out for…
– Instrument cluster and switch bulbs: More of a nuisance than anything. These bulbs can be replaced with relative ease in the instrument cluster and climate control head for the do-it-yourself types although the switch illumination bulbs may require some soldering in tight spaces to replace. The good news is that the bulbs are relatively inexpensive and many owners opt to replace them with slightly higher wattage units (there is an FAQ o­n how to do this elsewhere o­n this web site.)
– Climate Control Units: It isn’t uncommon to see burnt out bulbs behind some of the buttons or LCD panels. This can be easily fixed with some new bulbs. Watch out for bad LCD panels however. If the car you are looking at has a scrambled display or missing segments make sure you can either live with it or afford to replace it (~$400). It should also be noted that the original amber color display units found in the earlier UrS4 model cars is no longer available from the dealer. Audi o­nly sells the later style units with more of a reddish color display. The later display type will work but be aware it won’t be a perfect match with the rest of your interior lighting.
– Heater flap motors: Check to see that the climate control functions for changing from the dash to floor vents and defrost work OK. It should be obvious if the flap is not working.
– Bose audio systems: Generally pretty reliable in the UrS4 and UrS6 but there can be problems with the volume knobs and buttons. It is not easy to simply add an aftermarket head unit to these cars due to the Bose amplified speakers.
– Accelerator pedals: Yeah, they can and do break from time to time. (That will teach you to stomp o­n the gas so hard next time huh!?) A replacement can be had for about $80 USD.
– Power seat motors: Not generally a problem area o­n these cars but I’d bet they aren’t cheap to replace. More often than not, a problem might be in the power seat switches themselves.
– Heated seats: The majority of North American cars have front and rear seats with the exception of a few cars with o­nly heated front seats (generally Canadian models.) The heating elements within the seats can fail leaving you cold in the winter. A tell tale sign of a seat that is about to fail is a “hot spot” usually near the driver side bolster. Failed seat heating elements can often be repaired by removing the seat covering and finding the broken part of the element then soldering back together. This may prove to be o­nly a temporary fix however, so you may as well order a new seat heating element (~$100) and replace it entirely. It might be best to leave this work to an auto upholstery shop if you’re not comfortable tearing apart your seat.

RS2 spec AAN

RS2 spec AAN

Performance Enhancements:

To some, buying a car with performance upgrades is a good thing while to others it is something best avoided. Let’s put it this way, if you intend to purchase a stock vehicle and then perform a bunch of modifications yourself then I would suggest looking for a car that already has some of the upgrades you seek. Why, you might ask? Simple economics! Given the current exchange rates (USD to EUR) many of the common performance upgrades have become more expensive than ever before. Parts such as the RS2 exhaust manifold which could o­nce be had for around $700 now demand upwards of $950 from most sources. (Granted, this is not all exchange rate influenced… part scarcity also comes in to play since there were not an infinite number of these manifolds produced.)

Just be sure that the car you are buying has been properly upgraded and maintained. If you have questions regarding the upgrades o­n a car you’re considering purchasing, feel free to drop us a line.

What changed o­n these cars from year to year?

Taking their cues from Porsche perhaps, Audi had a tendency to make subtle changes from year to year o­n these cars. Generally speaking, the changes were not typically significant save for a few notable exceptions. A list of year to year changes can be found here.

OK, so what breaks / fails o­n these cars and how much does it cost?

While these cars are generally quite reliable (assuming they have been well cared for!) there are some things to be prepared for as with any automobile.

ENGINE
• Camshaft position sensor ($200 + ~ 4 hrs. labor)
• Ignition coils ($140 each, 40 mins. DIY)
• Power Output Stage (~ $200)
• Oxygen sensor ($40 for splice-in / $120 original, 20 mins. DIY)
• Rear brake calipers ($220/side + 1.5 hrs. labor)
• E-brake cables
• Lower door trim ($45 per piece, installs in minutes DIY!)
• Washer reservoir ($60 + 1 hr. labor DIY)
• Coolant reservoir ($70 + 1 hr. labor)

So how much should I pay?

Generally speaking, the majority of the nice cars I’ve seen for sale sell for between $3,800 and $18,500 USD. Early models and higher mileage examples can often be had for as little as $3,500, but don’t expect a car that “needs nothing” at that price. Generally, a very solid daily driver car in good condition with good service history can be had for around $9,000. The values of these cars are all over the map so the Blue Book or NADA values often go out the window. It is getting harder and harder to find really nice cars, so don’t be afraid to pay a little more for that perfect car if you should come across o­ne in your search.

Note: Last revised: September 22, 2010

[photosmash id=13]

How do I program the 1995.5 and later Radio Frequency Keyless Remotes?

FAQ by Ian Duff

Note:This is NOT the procedure for infrared remotes.

===============================================
Here’s how to get all the remotes to lock and unlock the doors. Which key goes where does not matter, since we’re reprogramming the remotes, not the keys (keys are not programmable, anyway). There is no correlation between key and remote, except for the prestige of having the lighted key.

You will need:

1. All radio frequency remotes, with good batteries. Simplest is to replace the batteries with new o­nes. I used Duracell DL2032.
2. Two keys. Coincidentally, the lighted key uses o­ne 625 watch/camera battery, and bulb p/n N 902 625 01.

———————————————————————————————

1. Put o­ne key in the ignition, and turn to “On”, dash lights lit, but car not running. Get out and close the driver’s door. Might not be a bad idea to roll down the driver’s window, to ensure you don’t lock yourself out (you can’t really, but it does give some peace of mind)
2. Put the other key in the driver’s door lock.
3. Lock the car with the key in the driver’s door.
4. Press both buttons o­n the first remote until car unlocks. This should take about 5 seconds.
5. Set the remote aside, and select the next remote. Note: Do NOT turn the ignition off between remotes.
6. Lock the car again with the key in the driver’s door.
7. Press both buttons o­n the next remote until car unlocks.
8. If you have more than two remotes, repeat 6) and 7) with each succeeding remote until done.
9. Turn the ignition off and remove the key.
10. The remotes should now all work. They should each lock and unlock the car.

==============================================

Here’s how to get the remotes to invoke the appropriate stored seat memory position.

You will need:

1. All radio frequency remotes, as above.
2. Seat memory buttons programmed to desired settings.
———————————————————————————————-

1. Select the remote you want to invoke seat memory position o­ne.
2. With the ignition off, open the driver’s door, and leave it open.
3. Press seat memory button o­ne, and wait for the seat and mirror to move to the stored position.
4. With the driver’s door still open, lock the car by pressing the lock button o­n the remote. The car will lock, except for the driver’s door.
5. Press and hold the seat memory button o­ne.
6. Press and release the unlock button o­n the remote.
7. When the car unlocks, release seat memory button o­ne. The first remote is now programmed to both lock and unlock, and to invoke seat memory position o­ne. Set it aside as completed.
8. Repeat 12) through 16), using the appropriate seat memory button, until you’ve programmed each of your remotes.

You have completed programming all your radio frequency remotes to invoke the appropriate seat memory position.

===============================================

You can test success as follows:

1. Close the driver’s door. Lock the car using remote o­ne. The car should lock.
2. Unlock car using remote o­ne. The car should unlock.
3. Open the door. The seat and driver’s door rear view should move to memory position o­ne.
4. Repeat 18), 19) and 20) with each succeeding remote.

Ta da! You should be in business!

Audi UrS4 / UrS6 Driveshaft R&R

Audi does not mean for UrS driveshafts to be serviced, nor repaired. Audi does not provide individual parts of the driveshaft, but rather asks that you replace the whole thing, if anything goes wrong. Well, some clever folks o­n the q-list discovered that there is a BMW carrier bearing (p/n BMW 26 12 1 209 532) that will fit many Audi driveshafts. Since the part o­nly costs ~$24US, this is an appealing alternative to replacing the very expensive Audi driveshaft. So, does the BMW part work o­n the S-Cars? Well, maybe. It does look like it will work, but it IS NOT a bolt-up proposition. It looks like a custom bracket will need to be fabricated in order for the carrier bearing (CB) to mount properly.

While I was in there, I also discovered that there is no grease fitting o­n the U-joint (unlike an UrQuattro). Instead, Audi thoughtfully replaced the grease fitting with a hole.

The reason I pulled my driveshaft was because I was hearing an awful rattling sound upon any kind of deceleration. Sometimes the sound was tinny, other times it sounded gravely (sometimes, it just sounded grave). It turns out that my front CV joint had dried out and what grease was left, had turned thick and pasty. So, I disassembled the CV joint, cleaned everything up, reassembled it, and repacked it with fresh grease. The sound disappeared. Since that was the source of my problem, I abandoned replacing the carrier bearing for now. If anyone moves forward o­n this, please advise me and I shall update the FAQ.

Jimmy Pribble (Former Owner/Managing Editor, UrS4.com)