I had a situation where two CDs left the cartridge and decided to impede the changer mechanism. You can probably guess who won (no one, the CD’s were shattered and the unit quit working). The first problem was that after the unit seized I couldn’t even get the cartridge out to discover that there was a disc problem.
I’ve yet to figure out exactly why it quit – unit detected problem and a safety shutdown, the changer drive mechanism overheating, or…..
What I did:
0. First objective – restore basic power to the unit so that I could eject the cartridge.
1. Looked for any unique fuses for the CD assembly – none were found.
2. Reset connector cables to the changer assembly – no effect.
3. Removed the CD Changer assembly from the trunk, removed the cover from the changer, removed the cover and base plate exposing the internal mechanisms, protected by plastic sheets that were semi-transparent.
4. Removed the disc remains.
5. Looked for any loose connections, obvious PCB breaks or components broken by the CD coming apart – none found.
6. Reset two ribbon cable connectors to the base plate, reset the internal power cable connector, etc.
7. Reassembled the unit – no luck.
8. Checked with Audi for the price of a repaired unit – ~ $300, but no units were available.
9. Called about the ads in Quattro Club newsletter – $595 for a whole unit (less head), and none immediately available.
10. Looked for conventional units to replace the changer altogether, looked at Sony since that seems to be who manufactured the unit for Blau. who then seemed to design and add the interface unit, put an Audi sticker on it, and at least double the price. Decided that my only option was a complete replacement – also pricey and time consuming.
11. Repeated steps 3 through 7 again, this time using contact cleaner on the connections and putting a multimeter on the connector plugs to ensure power was getting to the unit (I can send a copy of the wiring diagrams if you’d like them). This time the unit worked after reassembly, and has been working for the better part to three months now (as I shrink waiting for bolts of lightning from the Audi Gods!!!).
Observations:
1. Not even AoA has good diagrams or diagnostics for the 10 disc unit. The best they had available at the dealership was a warning not to use the Alpine diagnostic procedure as it would damage the 10 disc unit. This was on a sheet that said AoA was in the process of creating the 10 disc diagnostics. The date on the sheet was 1992 or 93 as I recall. When pressed in October 1997 the best that AoA could produce was the wiring chart showing chassis connections, but no diagnostic procedures.
2. This appears to be a questionable system. While I don’t strongly object to the music quality of the Audi Bose (it’s one heck of a lot better than the OEM system on my 86 4KCSQ), I’d think that there would be better ways to diagnose and support the customers.
If you have the 6 disc changer, it is an Alpine (Audi p/n: 4D0 035 111). If you have the 10 disc changer, it is a Sony/Blaupunkt (Audi p/n: 4A0 035 111).
Where can I get additional cartridges?
The Sony XA-10B Cartridge will work in the 10 disc changer. These cartridges should be readily available.
What is the procedure for entering my radio security code?
1. Turn on the radio.
2. Press the FM1 and the AM buttons at the same time, – hold them down until “1000” lights up in the display.
3. Use station buttons 1 to 4 to input the radio code. If the code starts with “1”, just use buttons 2, 3, and 4 because the “1” is already displayed. If the code starts with “0” then press button 1 once to toggle the “1” to a “0”.
4. Press button 2 as many times as the second digit of your code. Do the same thing with buttons 3 for the third digit and 4 for the fourth digit.
5. Once the correct code is shown on the display, again press the FM1 and the AM buttons at the same time. Hold them down until the word “SAFE” appears in the frequency display. Release the buttons. Soon afterward a frequency will be displayed and the radio is unlocked.
As you probably figured out, if you do this wrong twice in a row, you will have to turn the radio off and wait about an hour before you can try again.
Sony/Blaupunkt 10 CD Changer
The Audi 10 CD changer was manufactured by Blaupunkt under license from Sony, which would make it a Blau/Sony with Audi markings. I figured that a Sony was going to be easier to find, so that’s what I ended up with. The unit in my car is a Sony CDX-A30, which fits the stock mounting brackets perfectly.
10 Disc CD Changer
Sony CDX-A30
As far as I know, as long as it has the single 13 pin DIN cable hookup (the blue cable shown in the picture) it should interface properly with the stock radio and transceiver (the transceiver is what makes the changer visible to the radio).
For what it is worth, a quick search on “Sony CDX-A30” at deja.com turned up the following information – Caveat emptor, no warranty expressed or implied, etc. 😉
John Durbin wrote:
In chronological order:
Sony CDX-A20 OK, a little noisy esp. with some head models
Sony CDX-A30 Watch for leaky caps taking out the +/- 5V DC converter
Sony CDX-A2001 30V supply driving the audio stage, nice D/A converter
Sony CDX-A15 Leaky cap problem solved during CDX-A15 production
Sony CDX-A100 suspension, last of the big rotary loaders
Sony CDX-A55 DIN cable is M-M instead of M-F, jams to clear
One area that seems to be a common trouble spot as these cars get older is the plastic tail light lens that surrounds the trunk lock cylinder. The lens cracks and you start getting a tail light lens that fills with water. Replacement is not as hard as you might think. We’ve posted some photos and text showing the process.
Got cracks?
Back up lights can fail due to water intrusion
Remove Trunk Liner Screws
Remove Trunk Liner Screws
Trunk Liner Removed
Step 3: Remove the nuts from lock cylinder and tug
Loosen the two 8mm nuts holding the trunk lock cylinder in place. Don’t completely remove them yet.
Now loosen and remove the other three 8mm nuts holding the corners of the light in place.
Twist to remove back up light…
Step 4: Pry carefully…
Carefully work the edge… but don\’t force anything or you might crack the lens
1111 (Blink Fault Code), 65535 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Engine Control Unit (ECU) Defective memory circuits, Incorrect Checksum for internal memory (EPROMs) (this can occur on some modified ECU’s) Check ECU ground connections, Check EPROM programming Symptom: Check engine light may come on
1231 (Blink Fault Code), 00281 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number (S4/S6 with AAN engine Only) Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68), Open circuit or short circuit, speed sensor malfunctioning Symptom: A/C compressor does not shut off during wide open throttle in 1st gear
2111 (Blink Fault Code), 00513 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number RPM sensor (G28) Open or short circuit, sensor malfunction Defective sensor & cables, metal fragments on flywheel teeth Symptom: Engine will not start, misfires, may stop running
2112 (Blink Fault Code), 00514 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Timing reference sensor, (G4) (located 62 degrees BTDC) Sensor malfunction, Flywheel pin damaged/missing, Mis-located Sensor, distance to flywheel pin greater than 1.2mm (3/64 inch), wiring shielding problem for G4, hall sensor out of adjustment (3B and early AAN engines only) Symptom: Engine will not start, possible low power Fault code can occur after cranking the engine during a no start condition
2113 (Blink Fault Code), 00515 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number (G40) Hall sensor in distributor (3B, early AAN engines) or camshaft position Hall Effect sensor later S4/S6 AAN engine). Distributor alignment, faulty sender, Mis-located sensor & distributor, Cam timing possibly incorrect on AAN engine, Check lower Crankshaft Gear keyway Symptom: Engine will not start, power loss, check engine light may come on during driving above certain RPM
2121 (Blink Fault Code), 00516 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Idle switch problem Switch open circuit, stuck closed Switch defective (Internal solder connections intermittent) or wiring problem
2141 (Blink Fault Code), 00535 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Knock regulator #1 Excessive knock, timing is being retarded by maximum amount, Symptom: Low boost on 20V, Fuel octane too low, Excessive Compression, excessive boost
2142 (Blink Fault Code), 00524 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Knock sensor #1 (G61) Open or short circuit, Defective sensor Check sensor and wiring Symptom: Timing retarded, High fuel consumption, power loss, Boost pressure not attained
2143 (Blink Fault Code),00536 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Knock sensor #2, (Cylinders 3, 4, 5) Excessive knock, timing is being retarded by maximum amount. Symptom: Fuel octane too low, Excessive Compression, excessive boost
2144 (Blink Fault Code), 00540 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Knock Sensor #2, (G66) (Cylinders 3, 4, 5) Open or short circuit, Defective sensor or wiring Symptom: Timing retarded, High fuel consumption, power loss, Boost pressure not attained
2212 (Blink Fault Code), 00518 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Throttle potentiometer, short circuit to + or to ground,moisture or corrosion in harness connector Check throttle potentiometer resistance from idle to full throttle. Symptom: Lack of power or boost pressure is not attained
2214 (Blink Fault Code), 00543 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Engine Over-revved Engine has exceeded rev limit 7440 RPM on 20V engine) Driver has heavy right foot.
2221 (Blink Fault Code), 00575 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number for 3B 20V Turbo engine ONLY Manifold Pressure too low, or too high, control difference. Vacuum hose to ECU pressure sensor Vacuum hose missing or leaking, Check hose Symptom: Loss of Power
2222 (Blink Fault Code), 00519 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number ECU Internal Pressure sensor (G71) Pressure sensor defective, Repair or replace ECU or replace internal pressure sensor
2223 (Blink Fault Code), 00528 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Altitude Sensor (F96) Break in wiring or short to + or ground Symptom: Symptom: Loss of power, boost pressure is not attainable
2224 (Blink Fault Code), 00544 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Maximum Charge Pressure Exceeded, Intake air leak after turbocharger, ECU Vacuum/pressure line has leak between intake manifold Waste gate or pressure hose, Waste Gate Solenoid/hose problem, ECU pressure sensor malfunction Symptom: Misfire during wide open throttle, boost pressure too high
2231 (Blink Fault Code), 00533 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Idle Speed Control Valve (N71) Idle speed adaptation maximum limit exceeded or Minimum adaptation limit not reached Sticky or binding ISV, Mass Air Flow Meter (G70) offset, additional air introduced between G70 and N71 Symptom: Idle speed too low, or too high, Add air leak.
2234 (Blink Fault Code), 00532 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Supply Voltage Problem, ECU (J220) supply voltage too low or too high Poor ECU ground connection at intake manifold, battery discharged, check battery current drain with engine off
2241 (Blink Fault Code), 00538 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number (3B 20V Turbo Engine Only) Second Knock Sensor, (G61) Excessive knock, maximum control limit exceeded, open circuit in signal wire from G28 engine speed sensor or G4 ignition timing sensor or G28 and G4 are reverse connected to ECU (J220), Fuel Octane too low, Abnormal Engine noises, Open circuit in knock sensor shielding (G61) Symptom: low boost, Moderate power loss, higher fuel consumption, top speed not attainable
2312 (Blink Fault Code), 00522 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Coolant sensor (G62) Open or short circuit, Defective sensor or wiring, high resistance between sensor G62 and ECU J220 Symptom: Cold starting difficulties at low temperatures, Poor idle and acceleration during warm up
2322 (Blink Fault Code), 00523 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Inlet air temp sensor (G42) Open or short circuit, Defective sensor or wiring Symptom: Slight power loss, Increase in fuel consumption
2324 (Blink Fault Code), 00553 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor (G70) Open or short circuit, defective sensor, Signal too low or too high, Open circuit between G70 and ECU J220, Voltage supply interrupted or short to ground Symptom: system in limp home mode, very poor performance and acceleration, difficult to accelerate
2341 (Blink Fault Code), 00537 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Oxygen Sensor Control Limit exceeded, fuel pressure too low or too high, intake or exhaust leak, defective ignition system component, intake air leak after air mass sensor, O2 sensor is faulty Symptom: CO before catalyst is below 0.3% or greater than 1.0%, Extremely lean or overly rich exhaust, Spark Plug fouling
2342 (Blink Fault Code), 00525 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Oxygen Sensor (G39) Sensor Wiring or Sensor defective Heat resistor in sensor defective, Signal wiring shorted to ground, Fuel tank empty, Ignition system component failure, air leak at mass air flow sensor, air leak in exhaust pipe before catalyst, poor ECU ground wire connection at intake manifold. Symptom: Emissions not within specifications, increased fuel consumption, rich exhaust, spark plug fouling, Carbon Monoxide (CO) percentage above 3%,
2413 (Blink Fault Code), 00561 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Mixture Adjustment, Adaptation limit exceeded, Adaptation limit not reached, Leakage in exhaust system before 3 Way catalytic converters, Incorrect signal for Mass Air Flow Sensor, Spark plugs, ignition coil(s), or Ignition Coil Power output stage malfunctioning Symptom: Rich mixture, increased fuel consumption
3424 (Blink Fault Code), 00824 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number (3B 20V Turbo Engine Only) Fault Lamp Trigger Defective, short to + or to ground Symptom: “Check” engine light on dash does not light up with ignition on
4343 (Blink Fault Code), 01247 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Carbon Canister Solenoid, Evaporative Canister Purge Valve (N80), Open or short circuit, +12V supply circuit breaker or fuse open? Symptom: Poor response in part of load range, fuel odors, idle speed or quality may be affected
4411 (Blink Fault Code), 01249 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1, (N30) Open or short circuit, +12V supply circuit breaker or fuse open Symptom: Engine runs rough or stalls
4412, (Blink Fault Code) 01250 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2, (N31) Open or short circuit, +12V supply circuit breaker or fuse open Symptom: Engine runs rough or stalls
4413, (Blink Fault Code) 01251 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3, (N32) Open or short circuit, +12V supply circuit breaker or fuse open Symptom: Engine runs rough or stalls
4414, (Blink Fault Code) 01252 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4, (N33) Open or short circuit, +12V supply circuit breaker or fuse open Symptom: Engine runs rough or stalls
4421, (Blink Fault Code) 01253 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Fuel Injector for Cylinder 5, Open or short circuit, +12V supply circuit breaker or fuse open Symptom: Engine runs rough or stalls
4431, (Blink Fault Code) 01257 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Idle Stabilizer Valve solenoid, (N71) Open or short circuit, check circuit breaker or fuse for +12V supply Symptom: Engine speed out of range, Engine might die when cold, Engine runs rough or has flat spot, Note: When in limp home Mode, idle speed is between 1100 and 1200 RPM
4442, (Blink Fault Code) 01262 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number Waste Gate Frequency Valve, (N75) Open or short circuit, sticking valve, malfunctioning valve Symptom: Boost pressure too high or too low, Severe misfiring during full throttle due to high boost
4444, (Blink Fault Code) 00000 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number No Faults have been recorded.
0000, (Blink Fault Code) 00000 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number End of Diagnostic Output
One of the most frustrating issues you may face while owning an UrS4/S6 (especially on modified cars) may be high boost cut-out issues. Being pre-OBD II, these cars are less prone to give you the annoying (yet helpful) check engine light when problems arise. Then, when you DO actually retrieve a stored engine code it is often so vague that it pretty much confirms what you already knew… the engine isn’t running right.
In my case, I have a full RS2 spec S4 that normally runs 28 PSI max boost. It had run strong and run well for many years with only the occasional ignition coil failure to dampen an otherwise perfect ownership experience. I should also point out that I’m one of those slightly crazy people who chose to stick with the factory ignition coil setup rather than the popular 1.8T/2.0T coil conversion option. My reason for this? Well, as inexpensive as the conversion kits are, I have certainly heard of a lot more failures with them than with the more expensive stock coils. Sure, the conversion kits make for easier swapping when a coil does fail but it is nice if you can just avoid that premature failure in the first place. The original Beru coils are often good for 80k-120k miles and that was good enough for me to stick with them.
In my case, the high boost cut-out issue seemed to be exactly like the weak ignition coil failures I had experienced in the past. The car would seemingly run fine up to about 14 PSI of boost at which point it would stumble badly and emit a cloud of rich exhaust smoke out the tailpipe. Since I had replaced three of the five ignition coils in the past I decided it made sense to replace the remaining two coils, especially since I had over 150,000 miles of use on them. I swapped them and figured that would be the end of my problems – it wasn’t.
Since I had been working nearly 60 hours a week as an automotive service manager for a German specialty shop, my time to troubleshoot my own car was extremely limited. Ironic isn’t it? My problem would persist for quite some time before I had time to dig into it further. As long as I drove sanely it wasn’t really an issue which made me question whether I had either a fuel supply issue or perhaps an internal ECU issue. I started leaning towards a fueling issue after my car would sometime take a few extra cranks before starting in the morning. I’ve seen a failing fuel pressure regulator cause that sort of behavior in the past so I swapped in my spare RS2 fuel pressure regulator. Naturally, there was no change and my sanity slipped further away from reality.
I should also mention that I had gone through a number of boost leak checks and had found a few very minor leaks but nothing significant. With those out of the way I was down to: 1. Fuel issue 2. ECU issue 3. Engine issue (compression?)
The compression test confirmed that the engine was not yet dead so that was a relief. Swapping ECUs with another car also didn’t resolve the issue. It had to be fuel, right? Well, it seemed unlikely as I had actually had the fuel pump replaced with a stock Bosch unit just over a year earlier. It was actually the 3rd fuel pump my car had been through in its 160,000 mile life. The 2nd pump I had been using was a Pierburg unit which was supposed to be pretty much the same as the Bosch but as it turns out it wasn’t.
I decided to order the high flow fuel pump from 034 Motorsport along with their fuel pump relay. Much frustration was had due to the fact that the relay from 034 was actually wired incorrectly and would blow a fuse each time the car was started. Nice. Once the error was discovered and corrected all was well in the world again and full boost runs are back.
Moral of the story? Sometimes it isn’t a boost leak or a coil. Make sure you’ve got enough fuel. 🙂
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