The Audi 10 CD changer was manufactured by Blaupunkt under license from Sony, which would make it a Blau/Sony with Audi markings. I figured that a Sony was going to be easier to find, so that’s what I ended up with. The unit in my car is a Sony CDX-A30, which fits the stock mounting brackets perfectly.
AFAIK, as long as it has the single 13 pin DIN cable hookup (the blue cable shown in the picture) it should interface properly with the stock radio and transceiver (the transceiver is what makes the changer visible to the radio).
Transceiver: 4A0 035 239 (Blaupunkt 7 607 765 082)
Bracket: 4A5 035 113 (sedan)
Cover: 4A0 863 716 (sedan)
FWIW, a quick search on “Sony CDX-A30” at deja.com turned up the following information – Caveat emptor, no warranty expressed or implied, etc. 😉
John Durbin wrote:
In chronological order:
Sony CDX-A20 OK, a little noisy esp. with some head models
Sony CDX-A30 Watch for leaky caps taking out the +/- 5V DC converter Sony CDX-A2001 30V supply driving the audio stage, nice D/A converter Sony CDX-A15 Leaky cap problem solved during CDX-A15 production Sony CDX-A100
John Durbin, DEI Audio
This procedure addresses the false two-minute airbag warning light that occurs upon vehicle startup for some vehicles.
vehicle maintenance records
thin blade screwdriver
4 mm allen wrench
If you have a ’92, verify that the KF14 recall was done on your car. If so, you have an AIRBAG II system. The dealer can tell by your S/N if the recall was done. If not, then let the dealer upgrade your airbag and fix the light for free! Pry the trim piece off that surrounds your HVAC Central Control. BE CAREFUL to go slowly. See the procedure here: HVAC Head Unit Trim Removal. Unscrew the two 4 mm Allen Head screws that hold on the trim piece spring clips. Lift out the central control unit and swing it out so it rest on the passenger seat. Use a flashlight to help you see the AIRBAG triggering unit (labeled as such). Note the connector on the left side of the triggering unit and note the grey foam that is just above the connector. Inside the foam are the two 2-pin connectors that hook up to the VAG-COM. These connectors are identical to the ones under the left side of the hood, used to access fault codes. Push back the foam to connect the VAG-COM. Turn vehicle ignition to ON. Follow the VAG-COM menu to view and clear your fault codes: Menu 1 – Click Select Menu 2 – Click 15 – Airbags
Menu 3 – Click Fault Codes – 02
Menu 4 – Click Clear Codes – 05
Install is reverse of uninstall. You’re finished!
While this write-up is specific to the Europrice SSK, it should be applicable to any SSK that replaces the whole shifter assembly, and can be used to R&R the stock shifter assembly if replacing worn parts. Read though the whole procedure first, as there are some reference marks that will be useful during reassembly. Make sure your shifter is in neutral.
Step 1: Remove rear console. Thisis described in a separate write-up.
Step 2: Remove front console. This is described in a separate write-up.
Step 3: Remove crossmember. Crossmember isheld on with ten (10) 13mm nuts (Figure 1).
Step 4: Separate exhaust system from downpipe. If you have a Stromung, you will need to remove the center section only. If you have a stock system, you may get away with only having to remove the cats, but will probably have to slide the rest of the system rearward for clearance to work.
Step 5: Remove two (2) 13mm retaining bolts from torque rod and shift rod connections (Figure 2). Along extension on a 3/8 ratchet worked for me. You shouldn’t need a universal joint. Mark the torque and shift rods for insertion depth into the forward rods for reference before removal.
Step 6: Remove the four (4) 10mm bolts holding the top portion of the stop bracket, and remove the bracket (Figure 3). Take notice of bolt positions asthese hold the rear locator that accepts the pin on the rear of the shift assembly.
Step 7: Remove the insulation blanket from around the shifter assembly (Figure 4).
Step 8: Remove the four (4) 10mm nuts holding the lower portion of the stop bracket, and remove the bracket (Figure 5).
Step 9: Remove the whole shifter assembly with weather boot by lifting up and out towards the rear. You may have to wiggle it slightly to get everythingmoving (Figure 6). Don’t be concerned with the splines on the torque and shifter rods. The forward rods attached to the transmission are not splined on the inside at the connection points.
Step 10: Clean and transfer the weather boot to your SSK. Measure and transfer your insertion depth reference marks made in Step 5 to the SSK rods.
Weighting of SSK shift rod
If you do not plan to weight your shift rod, skip this section and go to the Reassembly Tips section.
Step 11: Lock your SSK in a vise as shown (Figure 7).
Step12: I went to Pep Boys to ask if I could grab some used wheelweights out of the junk bucket next to the tire changer. While I was rummaging through to find the cleanest ones I could, one of the mechanics came up and gave me a box of brand new ones. Score! Anyway, you need to obtain some lead wheel weights. I used approximately 14oz of weights to fill up the hollow in the shift rod.
Step 13: Remove the steel clips from the wheel weights. Heat the weights in some type of container. I used a plumber’s ladle (Figure 8) I had which was used for running lead plumbing joints way back when. You can still get these fromplumbing supply housesfor around $35 if you are so inclined. I used an acetylene “B” tank for my heat source.
Step 14: Heat the weights until they liquefy, and pour into the shift rod (Figure 9). You should probably wear a mask when heating the lead asI’m sure lead fumes are not good to inhale.
Step 15: I used anti-seize on the torque and shift rod ends to facilitate disassembly again in the future. Reinstall the SSK through the opening inthe floor. Line up the rod connections from underneath. There are no splines onthe inside of the forward rods, so don’t worry about alignment. Get the retaining bolts started to keep everything from coming apart.
Step 16: Reinstall the lower portion of the stop bracket, and tighten. Make sure you slip the rubber support over the pin on the rear of the shifter assembly. Reinstall the top portion of the stop bracket. Before tightening the bracket in place, make sure your transmission is still in neutral, and align your side-to-side shifter assembly position (for neutral). Tighten down the top portion of the stop bracket.
Step 17: Set the front-to-back shifter assembly position (for neutral) by adjusting to the marks on the torque and shifter rods made in Step 5. Tighten the torque and shift rod retaining bolts. Reinstall the insulation blanket around the shifter assembly.
Step 18: Reinstall your front and rear consoles and you’re done.
FAQ by Steven Young
You can also download this FAQ as a PDF.
It is hard to believe that my UrS4 is now 20 years old. It certainly doesn’t look it, especially after a good spring detail. It also doesn’t look like it has covered more than 180,000 miles. In fact, it still does quite well in the regional car shows. This isn’t even some California cream puff. My car started life here in America in Michigan before coming into my care in Iowa (and now Minnesota.) All of these states have harsh winters and lots of road salt! My car survives!
I know several other friends here in the Twin Cities area that are still driving their C4 S4 or S6 as a daily driver as well. They somehow remain reliable enough for daily driving even after all these years. Amazing!
With that in mind, I decided that it would be fun to feature some of you who are still living with a UrS4 or UrS6 on a daily basis. I invite you to send me your ownership stories and photos to be featured here on S-CARS.ORG. Hopefully we’ll hear from people all over the world and publish some of their ups and downs of ownership.
Want to share your story? Simply email it to me at email@example.com and include any photos of you or your car that you’d like to have included.